In September of 2017, Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty was launched. The immediate craze and hype around the new brands products created a media frenzy as beauty gurus, influencers and celebrities praised the brand. To be honest, I did not understand why everyone was rushing to get their hands on a Fenty Beauty foundation until one fine day I went to my local Sephora. It was honestly a sight I had not seen before in my life – a full aisle dedicated to Fenty Beauty’s 40 foundation shades which ranged from light beiges to deep browns. To further add to my amazement, most of the darker shades were either sold out, or only had very few bottles remaining. It occurred to me that it was my first time witnessing such diversity in makeup. Usually when I go to buy foundation, I find that many brands have a large variety of options for lighter-skinned customers as most of their foundation collections comprise various types of beige.
This discrimination is seen in many beauty campaigns as brands try to market their products as ‘all inclusive’ yet many women of color are unable to find their shade. For example, the popular Tarte Shape Tape foundation was a big letdown for many darker skinned customers as there were essentially only three-four darker shades out of a collection of 15 shades for women to choose from. For a very long time in history, darker skinned customers have long been overlooked and ignored. This video by Vox perfectly explains why and how colorism exists in the makeup industry. In the past, colonization had brought forth discrimination of people based on their skin colour. I am sure you are aware of how countries in Africa were colonized by European countries and how Africans were forcefully removed from their home countries and shipped to other countries to be used as slaves. In Asian countries like India, Sri Lanka and Malaysia, people have a similar history of skin colour being used as a factor of judgment. The installation of social hierarchy based on skin colour was the foundation for such discrimination in the makeup industry today. People of the past, and sadly the present, have been told that dark skin is ‘dirty’, preventing darker complexions from accessing the makeup that they wish to wear. Women of darker skin have long been oppressed in the beauty industry, as they struggle to find and create representation.
Looking at countries where there are people of a wide range of skin tones and shades, many companies fail to deliver for a large sample of people. India is a perfect example of colorism as only lighter shades are sold in stores. Lakme, a very popular makeup brand in India, is the go-to foundation brand for many young girls and women. But the problem with this brand is that it only offers four shades. Yes, you read that right, they only sell four shades. With such a small selection for people to choose from, it is easy for young girls to feel as though they are not part of society and that they are not beautiful enough to be accepted in society. From experience, I can relate to feeling inadequate and not pretty enough as I am someone with a darker complexion. When I went to India as a child, my only option for makeup was a very pale colour that rendered my face an ashy complexion. Such discrimination is what is prompting girls of darker complexion to use skin-whitening creams, damaging their skin for acceptance in society.
Up until a few years ago, beauty was depicted as a fair lady, but as the media’s power over the industry has grown, changes are being made. Many Youtubers and celebrities have used their voices to speak out against the blatant injustice that affects many people in society. Brands are starting to reevaluate their products and have, in the recent years, been releasing products that include makeup suitable for darker complexions. Using the example from before, Lakme expanded their line from 4 shades to 16. Though this shade range may not accommodate absolutely everybody, the industry is making a shift towards a more progressive and accepting future.